SPRING ASCENTS: THE BREITHORN

SPRING ASCENTS:  THE BREITHORN

Embarking on a first springtime mountain ascent in the European Alps can be an exhilarating and memorable experience. One suitable ascent for such an adventure, especially for beginners, is the Breithorn in the Pennine Alps, located on the border between Switzerland and Italy.

While mountaineering during the warm climate variability of Spring always carries inherent risks, the Breithorn is one of the most accessible peaks in the Alps with entry gained from both the Swiss town of Zermatt as well as Italian hamlet of Cervinia.  Classic climbing lodgings within the area are ample and provide basic amenities, a cozy atmosphere, and a sense of camaraderie among climbers.  Such notable and truly authentic destinations such as the Hörnli Hut (Hörnlihütte), Rifugio Guide del Cervino, Rifugio Teodulo, Gandegg Hut (Gandegghütte), and Berghaus Fluealp provide dormitory-style accommodations, hearty meals, exceptional vistas, international camaraderie, and a tranquil retreat pre or post climbing experience.

Whether rising to a breakfast of Italian cornetti and cappuccino or Swiss bircher muesli, visiting alpine sport enthusiasts climbing the Breithorn are recommended to first acclimate to altitude by taking a short hike or ride on the Gornegrat Railway.  Despite its relatively moderate altitude, the Railway and summit excursions of the Breithorn offer alpinists stunning panoramic views of the surrounding Alps, including the Matterhorn, Monte Rosa, and the Swiss and Italian Alps. 

The Breithorn is one of the many peaks in the Alps that exceed 4,000 meters (13,123 feet) in elevation.  At such altitudes, climbers may experience altitude sickness, fatigue, and decreased physical and mental performance due to the reduced oxygen levels. As is expected, professional Mountain Guides will strongly advocate for a few days of acclimatization and a proper climbing pace both of which are considered essential to mitigating the potentially dangerous impairments often associate with heightened altitudes above sea level.

While the technical nature and elevation of the Breithorn are considered to be of moderate difficulty by European outdoor standards, hikers & climbers are always encouraged to partner with locale and accredited Mountain Guides to ensure a safe round trip including plans for both the ascent and descent.  Likewise, as such experienced climbers will impart, outdoor recreation of this type requires a combination of physical fitness, technical skills, route knowledge, and good judgment to navigate the various obstacles encountered in the high alpine environment.  Whether pursuing the standard route, often referred to as the Breithorn Normal Route (typically a 4 hour excursion) or the Breithorn Half Traverse, either path can present several challenges, particularly depending on the route chosen and the weather conditions of any given day in the Alps.

Some of the common technical difficulties encountered while climbing the Breithorn include rapidly changing weather including storms, high winds, low visibility, and sudden drops in temperature.  Likewise, while less common but an ever present danger, many routes up the mountain involve glacier crossings which can be crevassed and prone to avalanches. As such all climbers need to be proficient in glacier travel techniques, including crevasse rescue. They must also be equipped with appropriate gear such as crampons, ice axes, and ropes.  Familiarity with such alpinist’s equipment is a pre-requisite for a safe & successful summit of the Breithorn and to avoid emergency scenarios, which due to the remote terrain, likely require a long wait for assistance and/or self-rescue.