Planning our next trip: Sölden, Austria
As isolation remains in full effect around the world, there’s plenty of time to add to your bucket list of ski trips for next season and beyond.
With that in mind, we asked our friend Kortney Gruenwald to share some tips on her favorite alpine destination (and one we are excited to explore): Sölden, Austria.
Austria is internationally reputed for world-class skiing, yet for decades the country remained less coveted than more voguish alpine villages in Switzerland and France. Woefully for European skiiers who long protected Austria’s Ötztal Valley as a winter secret to be kept, one village at the heart of it is now one of the skiing world’s most desired summits of alpine pleasure: Sölden.
You may not find Sölden on the cover of luxury travel magazines nor on the itinerary of Instagram stars, but the village’s traditional allure contributes to the timeless regality of it. As other ski resorts become a cultural byproduct of commercial luxuries, Sölden remains steeped in the history and multigenerational alpine traditions the village was built upon. The Ötztal Valley attracts worldly skiers with traditional values, those who treasure history, serious sport and the nostalgic alpine glamour James Bond enjoyed in Spectre.
Sölden came into my life serendipitously whilst I lived in Germany. The village is not only my own winter holiday destination, it has since become an inspiration behind more than just one of my forthcoming books. One day on these snow-swept glaciers won’t be enough to appease any skier, but Sölden isn’t a checklist destination – it’s a treasured village to celebrate Austrian alpine rituals daily.
Live Like a TyroleaN
I’m a particularly romantic ski type who seeks accommodation with modern luxury and timeless alpine character – a default Tyrolean standard. The traditional wooden chalets of the Ötztal Valley often double as family-owned hotels, each having its own multigenerational history. Sölden’s oldest alarm clock – the churchbells of Pfarrkirche – are within hearing distance of my two favourites:
Das Central – The peak of alpine luxury is found behind the doors of Das Central. When I’m craving spa time in between snow carving, this Sölden hotel restores my skiing and writing muscles alike. Conveniently located at the base of the valley, sunrise walks to the Bäckerei are expected. The hotel also boasts a lovely lounge area where Kaiserschmarren is always available to order. https://www.central-soelden.com/
Kaiserschmarren at Das Central
Gruenwald Resort – Perched on a mountaintop above Sölden, Gruenwald Resort is one of the Ötztal Valley’s most desired chalets given its direct slope access and heavenly panoramic vista. This Tyrolean property was passed down from father to son, who has reinvented the traditional chalet into a modern ski hideaway over the past decade. https://www.kortneygruenwald.com/grunwald-resort-solden-austria-top-ski-hideaway/
Early Bird Skiier: Piste #30 & Gaislachkogl
Austrians are early risers by nature, an ancestral genetic alarm clock prompting farm duties, plowing snow, surviving harrowing winter conditions and highest priority – ascending the mountains before neighbors. When in Sölden, do as the Tyroleans do.
Piste 30 is my first stop every morning and my last stop before descending back down to the valley. The dreamy alpine route requires a gondola-chairlift voyage starting at Gaislachkogl sation to the summit, a scenic adventure in itself. Once reached, this spectacular Piste descends for ages until eventually hitting glorious red slopes and welcome lifts back to the top and other routes (to do it all over again.)
Brunch on the Piste: Gampe Thaya
This traditional mountain hut was introduced to me by locals years ago on a summer hike, during which Sölden’s summits boast riots of violet wildflowers, speckling emerald pastures alongside grazing Tyrolean Greys (fuzzy, storybook-worthy cows). Summer is another Austrian tale. During the peak of winter, Gampe Thaya is a treasured mid-piste ritual with a view. My order: the mountain breakfast and a cappuccino, followed by the hut’s legendary Kaiserschmarren.
Gampe Thaya’s menu is devoutly loyal to Tyrolean tradition. Dare ask the server for a Coca-Cola and you’ll be recited the benefits of Elderflower juice or politely handed an Almdudler. Gampe Thaya is indisputably one of my happiest places on earth – for the cozy experience, freilich, but also for the heart stopping alpine vista.
The charms of Gampe Thaya
Après Ski for Old Souls: The Fireplace
Sölden is quite rightly esteemed for its lively evening scene, essentially becoming an alpine version of Ibiza during its Electric Mountain Music festival in April. For those who wish to take advantage of Sölden’s thriving Après Ski culture, Marco’s in the valley a prime choice for a true experience. https://www.marcos-treff.at/home/
As for my personal Après Ski culture, you’ll likely find me drinking a mug of Heisse Schokolade (hot chocolate) next to a crackling fire in nothing but thermals. I prefer to silently bask in the euphoric, satisfied exhaustion after a perfect ski day, my only prospect thereafter being a hearty Austrian supper.
Traditional Tyrolean Dinner: S’Pfandl
Alpine Austrians believe a fulfilling life is rooted in simplicity, and the same wisdom applies to Tyrolean food. I adore family-owned restaurant S’Pfandl for its cozy atmosphere and humble roots, always lively with skiiers excitedly planning the next day’s mountain adventures. I usually order Kaesespaetzle as a main course, followed by Apfelstrudel for dessert. For those who aren’t familiar with the delicious wonder known as Kaesespaetzl, imagine a rich macaroni and cheese (local mountain cheese, of course) topped with crisp roasted onions. Heaven, and the perfect way to end a dream day in Sölden.
